Post no 8 -
ALSACE VIN no 5. - The fair in Angers
We were at the Fair and hanging on the gate before they opened. We went directly to Luc Faller from Alsace as agreed in advance. Good thing we were there early so he had time with us before the rush of visitors. When he took over after his father he converted to Eko / Bio and for ten years he didn’t see a difference in the wine. Then someone got him interested in Biodynamic cultivation and then the energy and finally he saw the results in the wines - and what wines! Now Luc is trying to send samples to the 20th for our tasting. The fair has two parts Loire wine and Demeter / Biodynamically grown. We have selected a number to visit and we have followed the plan.
Florence Pelletier grows both still and sparkling wine in Champagne, which could be our next area to seek growers in. A little different from what you are used to because of the soil, otherwise fruity and direct wines. Bernard Vallette makes wines that you have not heard of in Beaujolais and really interesting blends of grapes and for example a dry Muscat. Very good! Sandrine Henriot also in Beaujolais showed off her first vintage after taking over from a grower who was already biodynamic. More classic taste profile but with more energy -round soft and full of energy! Champagne Lelarge-Pugeot, Eko long ago and now Demeter certified for some of their wines. A very characteristic scent and taste of exotic fruit or peach and even orange peel in the taste. Domain Childéric in the southern Rhône, as you saw in the Instapost, only 4ha in principle grenache wines but with unexpected structure that backs up the softness of the Grenache grape. Finally, a German grower Frank John with Riesling (an incredible 2017!), Pinot Noir, light in the scent but proper pinot noir flavor and structure, and lastly sparkling riesling made according to. Chanpagne method and 32 or 40 months in bottle before the grapes are removed. They already have an importer who sells their wines in Sweden and they will be in the monopoly with their red wines so the importer does a good job for them. Tomorrow we will continue with some more that we have already had contact with and further tests. Now we go out and drink wine !!!
Post no 7 -
ALSACE VIN no 4. - Rohrer & Simonis
︎ Ludovic Rohrer
Two visits today Ludovic Rohrer, Domain André Rohrer in Mittelbergheim and Etienne and Katia Simonis, Domain Etienne Simonis. Both growers are biodynamic and both Ludovic and Etienne are the persons of the length of generations who have taken the farms to Biodynamic practice and certification.
︎ Images from the Rohrer-residence.
Ludovic had basically decided for a life outside the family company but returned and after practicing with Julian Meyer, he decided to convert to biodynamic pactises. He parallel-cultivated the same plot and the same grape before he decided and the result clearly showed better wine under a biodynamic regime. 9 generations as a wine grower and three generations still active in the family domaine where Ludovic and his sister now have taken over the operation. Already Grandpa was organic and is today most impressed that wines are now appreciated and sold all over the globe. Good stringent wines. We have chosen a sparkling Chardonnay (just for you Lars Z). Sylvaner / Pinot Blanc that clean and elegant will fit well with ”westcoast” food and a Pinot Noir with barrel contact, old barrels for oxidation contact rather than taking taste from barrels. Finally Ludovic sent with some surprises and we can already reveal one a PetNat.
︎ Katia & Etienne Somonis.
Then we went south to what turned out to be Christian Binner's neighbor, Domain Etienne Simonis. Etienne and Katia welcommed us and presented the history of the farm, the vineyards and the wines. All wine locations are handled separately all the way to their own bottles resulting in alsmost 25 different wines. Etienne switched to biodynamic when he took over operations in 1996 and certified in 2000. Katia och Etienne manage the domain together and bring in some help when at peak workload situations but they would never let someone else do the cutting or other critical activities. Great to be told about the location and the soil and then taste that particular terroir in the glass! Many good wines and Pinot Gris that definitely stood out to something else we tasted, so we bought it with us! On Otto's advice also a sweeter variant that tastes Gold! A Pinot Noir that will be super interesting to taste alongside Ludovic's and a "blanc de rouge" much like a Champagne on Pinot Noir but vinified as white. Katia and Etienne also sent with a Gewürtztraminer which they think we will like.
︎ Images from the Somonis-residence.
Post no 6 -
ALSACE WINE no 3. - Binner & Lissner
︎ Binner residence
We’re in place in Alsace and we visited two growers during our first day. Two similar but different growers. Christian Binner took over after his father Joseph who initially decided not to go the way almost everyone did with pesticides, fertilizers etc to get bigger harvests and he probably had to pay the price for it by being considered an odd bird. Christian has now made 22 harvests and he has built a new Ronchamp-like wine cellar where he makes and stores his wine. We got the feeling that there is a continuous improvement work going on for themselves and with others and that they are curious to try new things. We tried a wide range of wines with quite a different taste profile. Everything is done without adding or removing anything '. Quite recently, they have started letting white grapes macerate with the peel and one of the reasons for this is global warming with more sweetness in the grapes which can then be balanced out with acid/tannins from the peel. We chose a riesling and a shell-macerated wine with a blend of grapes, mostly Gewürtztraminer. We will try that on the 20th..
︎A collection of images from the Binner residence.
The second visit was with Bruno and Theo Schloegel at Domain Lissner. Bruno took over after his uncle in 2001 and switched totally to a model all natural and he call it;"sauvage". In general, Bruno lets the vine and the soil manage itself, and thus the micro life thrives and the vine builds up its own resilience but ofcourse it’s much more behind. His vines really stand out in the fields. The spontaneous reaction is that it is neglected then you listen to Bruno and you are completely convinced that it is the only ones that are alive. Everything is well thought throu and interconnected, and in the end of the day -giving them the best wines. With this example hopefully soon, the whole village is ecological. (but not everyone changes because they change). The domain has a newly built wine cellar where everything follows gravity and is recycled and provided stable conditions for making the wine to a whole new level. Stable conditions are important because they want to make as little impact as possible in the cellar. The wines are divine with roses and flowers and minerals in the scent but Theo talks mostly about the soil and the bitterness (think orangepeel) and saltyness and how it affects the grapes and then the wine.
︎ Bruno Schloegel himself.
The whole visit is "Mindblowing" and you leave with more questions than when we arrived - Great! We choose both riesling and gewürtztraminer and in addition, Bruno and Theo sent with us additional bottles that they thought you should get the chance to taste. Everything on the 20th!
︎ Images from the Lissner residence.
Inlägg no 5 -
ALSACE VIN no 2. - GROWERS